Fitting
a Vapour Permeable Underlay - A Step by Step guide
The use of vapour permeable
underlays (VPUs) is quickly gaining acceptance in all
types of pitched roof. Originally introduced for warm
roofs – that is for buildings with a room-in-the-roof
– the development of VPUs mean they now offer more strength
than 1F bituminous felts which are traditionally used
on cold pitched roofs, where the attic space is unoccupied.
Correctly installed, such underlays allow water vapour
to pass through from the interior and disperse harmlessly
into the atmosphere, so condensation does not become
a problem in the roof space. However, as with a Goretex
raincoat, the passage of water vapour is one way only
and VPUs provides a secure waterproof barrier against
the weather. Any rainwater that penetrates the tile
junctions onto the VPU will run off harmlessly into
the gutter, whilst the tape-sealed lap system ensures
the roof remains wind tight.
The popularity of VPUs stems from the fact that they
are much lighter and easier to handle than 1F felt,
as well as aiding roof-space ventilation. However, installers
should be aware of the correct installation procedure.
Klober have produced this step by step guide on installing
VPUs on a traditional cold roof.
| Step
1
Neither VPUs nor bituminous felt are UV stable,
so an Eaves Carrier should be stapled to the
rafters at the eaves as a continuous support
for the membrane and to protect the material
from sunlight. The Eaves Carrier sheets should
overlap one another by at least 100mm. |
|
| |
|
| |
Step
2
Lay the first roll of VPU with the bottom edge
over the eaves carrier to ensure the membrane
will be covered by the roof finish. Double-sided
tape can be used to seal the membrane to the
eaves carrier. |
| |
|
| |
Step
3
Drape VPU over the rafters and fix along rafter
centres using a Staple hammer and 8 x 11mm nails
at 450mm centres. Using a staple hammer is quicker
and means the roofer can keep one hand free,
which is safer. Furthermore, lightweight membranes
do not require heavyweight felt tacks to fix
them in place. |
| |
|
|
|
| Step
4
Fix battens over the VPU in accordance with tile
manufacturer’s recommended gauge, taking care
not to fix above the marked 150mm lap-line along
the first roll’s upper, outer edge. |
| |
|
| |
| NB: BS 5534, the Code of Practice for Slating
and Tiling, provides guidance on size of laps. |
| |
|
| |
Step
5
Use battens as footholds to get in position to
install next roll of VPU. Working up the roof
slope, parallel with the eaves, repeat the sequence,
double-sided tacto tape can be used to seal all
horizontal and vertical laps.
N.B. The depth of the drape of VPU across the
rafters should be no more than the depth of the
battens. |
| |
|
| |
Step
6
End Laps/vertical joints should be at least 300mm
wide, coinciding with rafter centres. Extend VPU
over the ridge by at least 150mm.
|
| |
|
| |
Step
7
Once the roof is covered and the batten system
is completed, use the battens as secure footholds
to lay the roof tiles and accessories following
manufacturer’s instructions. |
| |
|
|
Once installed, VPU is much stronger than 1F felt and is more
difficult to tear or accidentally put a foot through. Further
information on all Health & Safety regulations for working
on a roof, please refer to leaflet INDG284 published by Health
& Safety Executive. This can be obtained free by calling
08701 45500.
|